The study of wind effect is of importance.
- The winds have a great effect on shallow-water wave shape. Wind blowing in the same direction as the wind-wave propagation will cause the surface current to increase. Wind blowing in the direction against the wave propagation will tend to increase the limiting height.
- Onshore winds cause waves to break earlier, in deeper water, and to spill; offshore winds cause waves to break later, closer to shore, and to plunge.
- Offshore wind cause larger breaking-wave heights.
- API, NPD wind models are introduced.